<p>These will raise your ground clearance by approx 10mm, and allow maximum axle articulation on both sides. More than90 degrees!<br/>
Should also work on Danchee Ridgerock and Pirate Swinger</p>
<p>0.1 layers<br/>
100% infill<br/>
220C for the filament<br/>
70C for the first layer. (may not be necessary)<br/>
50C for the rest</p>
<h3>Print instructions</h3><p>YOU WILL NEED SOME LONGER SCREWS FOR THE LOWER HOLES!!!<br/>
I suggest 2.5 x 20mm self tapping. ( I didn't have any )<br/>
I used 0.1 layers with 100% infill and 220C for best strength. Feed rates were as per Cura's standard settings. I used supports everywhere and a raft, though it did involve a lot of cleaning up after printing. The lower holes are 3.3mm and the top holes for the damper swivel are 2.1mm. Obviously you can drill the holes bigger if you want, buy the stock damper swivels need a 2.5mm screw.<br/>
Be careful the first time you screw the screws into the top holes, as PLA is more brittle than the original injection moulded plastic. Maybe even drill out just the outer holes 2.5mm to match the screws. I made the lower holes bigger to help get the screws/bolts into the lower mounts. You will need to remove your wheels and the steering pivot screws, to get the lower ones undone and replaced more easily.<br/>
{ Also, with the 3.3mm lower holes, you could do what I did, which was to drill the outer self tapped hole to 3mm on the original mounts, then re-cut the inner one with an M3 x 25mm bolt, with a small slot ground into one side at the nose of the thread, to remove some material instead of forcing it was in there. There is not enough room to use a proper thread tap, unless you completely disassemble the axle ends!) Jonny 5 say no disassemble! (you could prepare that cutting screw with a junior hacksaw, or even a half round needle file. Just be very careful.)</p>
<p>Tried to use Thingiverse, but it seems to be broken.</p>